Hotel Palma Royale
What we like about this house is its restraint, on an island that rarely bothers...
Bocas Town is a grid of wooden houses on stilts, and the best of them keep one foot in the water. Tropical Suites takes that idea seriously: the building runs off Calle Primera and out over the sea, so the covered balconies on the ocean side look straight down at it. Inside, the register is warmer than the glass and chrome you might expect from a beach hotel, with solid wood furniture made locally and island artwork on the walls. Nineteen suites across ten configurations sleep anything from two to six, which explains the mix of couples, families and divers in the breakfast room.
Two things set it apart in a town where most rooms are simply rooms. The first is that every suite is a small apartment: a full kitchen or kitchenette, a king bed with proper linen, a jacuzzi tub in the bathroom, and enough floor space to unpack for a week. The second is the dock. Bocas is an archipelago and everything worth doing involves a boat, so a hotel that launches you from its own pier rather than from a queue on the public jetty changes the shape of the day.
Calle Primera is the waterfront street of Isla Colón, and the hotel sits on the calm end of it, near the ferry landing and a short walk from the restaurants, dive shops and grocery stores of Bocas Town. That position buys quiet at night without a taxi. From the dock, Isla Carenero is a couple of minutes away, Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos and the mangrove channels are a short ride, and the coral cays of the Bastimentos marine park are the standard day trip. The island airport is close enough that arrival is a matter of minutes.
Price: Premium
Vibe: Caribbean, wooden, over the water, easygoing
Rooms: 19 suites in ten configurations, for two to six guests
Best For: couples, families on a long stay, divers and snorkellers who want an early boat
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: the covered ocean balconies, close enough to the surface to watch the water change colour through the day
Dining: breakfast included at the waterside café next door, with the kitchens of Bocas Town a few minutes on foot
Amenities: private dock for island boats, jacuzzi tubs, full kitchens, pool, tour and water taxi desk, laundry
Attractions: Bocas Town centre on foot, Isla Carenero minutes by boat, Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos, Cayos Zapatillas in the marine park, Starfish Beach on Isla Colón
The configurations run from one room suites for two up to family layouts for six, and the difference between them is mostly space and outlook. Ocean view units take the balconies; the others look over the pool or the town, and cost less for it. All of them come with a kitchen, which matters on an island where restaurant prices climb in high season and where a good breakfast of local fruit is a five minute walk away at the market. Ask for an upper floor on the water side if you want the horizon rather than the neighbouring roofs.
The hotel arranges boats and water taxis from its own pier, which is the practical heart of the place. Snorkelling trips to the marine park, transfers to the beaches of Bastimentos, surf runs to the breaks on the north of Isla Colón and the crossing to Carenero all start there. Trips leave early, before the afternoon wind roughens the channels, so the short walk from your door to the boat is worth more than it sounds at seven in the morning.
Bocas Town is a working Caribbean town, not a resort enclave: the street outside carries bicycles, music and the evening crowd, and rooms on the town side hear it. The water side is where the quiet is. The archipelago has two rhythms, a drier stretch that suits diving and a wetter one that suits surfing, so the season decides the itinerary more than the hotel does. Children are welcome in the larger suites, pets are not, and the wooden stairs make the upper floors hard going for anyone with limited mobility.
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